January Gardening

Posted on January 18, 2012 by theGardener

Baby it is cold out there! It may be winter and difficult to focus on gardening but there are a number of tasks that may need attention in your garden.

This month is a good time to assess pruning and planting of trees and shrubs. This is a good month to prune shade and fruit trees as the sap is at the lowest point of the year. However, do not prune flowering trees as they are already set for blooming in the spring.

January and February is the bare season for rose bushes. These are the months in which the plant is dormant and roses can be planted or transplanted during these months without damage. This is also a month that trees can be planted should you find a brief warn period when you can dig in the soil.

January can also be a good month to prune shrubs, except for flowering shrubs as if the flowering shrubs are pruned you are eliminating the flowering buds that are already set for spring.

If you are in a section of the country that receives storm damage, prune any damaged limbs as quickly as possible to prevent additional damage such as the tearing of the bark. If you have snowfall, knock the snow off the branches of evergreens and fine branched trees using an upward motion to keep the limbs from breaking. Even light snow can turn into ice over night and cause damage to the branches. If breakage occurs, prune the damaged branches.

Also, keep raking and remove any fallen leaves as they can cause damage and smother the grass. Please stay off any frozen grass as this causes damage to the grass.

Now that the Christmas season has ended, instead of hauling your old Christmas tree to the curb, put it to good use in your yard. The tree branches can be used to protect tender plant and perennials during the winter months. It can be used to form a wind or sun shield for shrubs such as azaleas, rhododendrons, holly and boxwoods. The tree can also be placed in the yard to provide shelter to the birds during the winter and protection for the birds from predators like cats.

Fall Gardening Tasks

Posted on October 4, 2011 by theGardener

The fall provides an opportunity for gardeners to reflect on the successes of the season and assess garden maintenance. This period of the season brings new and different tasks to our gardens and prepares our gardens for the spring. Some tasks to consider in the fall include:

• Utilizing our compost to enrich our beds and garden spots.
• Cover our water gardens and ponds with netting to eliminate leaves from water that are falling.
• Eliminate any diseased perennials by cutting back.
• Clean all garden tools and store properly for the winter.
• Remove fall leaves from flowers and perennials from beds.
• Move indoor house flowers back into the house.
• Take any flower cuttings that you may want to keep for next season.
• Keep shrubs and trees watered as they can dry out during the fall without sufficient rain.
• Assess and add mulch to beds as necessary.
• Plant any new spring bulbs at this time (up until frost).
• Keep gutters clear of leaves and other falling debris.
• Removed fallen leaves from yard and flower beds.

Time for gardening bargains

Posted on September 19, 2011 by theGardener

If you have a limited budget and have had your eye on purchasing perennials for your garden, fall is the perfect time to purchase from you local gardening center. Garden centers are looking to reduce inventory and eliminate excess perennial plants at the end of the growing season. Reductions in plant prices can be substantial at this time of the year and it is the opportunity to obtain those great plants at reduced prices and planting the perennials at this time of the year is good timing and you will be rewarding coming the growing season next year.

Mulching Fall Leaves

Posted on September 19, 2011 by theGardener

Chopping leaves with a mulching mower and leaving them on the ground or lawn is a cheap and efficient alternative to fall leaf disposal. Shredding leaves are healthful for turn and soil because the microbial activity in decomposition improves the soil. The mulching works best when the uncut lawn is just lightly coved and grass should be visible through the leaves.

For the love of Chrysanthemum

Posted on September 19, 2011 by theGardener

Fall is a wonderful time to experience the beauty of chrysanthemum in your garden and they have become a staple for outdoor fall decorating. This time of the year garden centers are selling millions of chrysanthemum for gardeners to plant for fall color as the chrysanthemum flowers are bought specifically for fall displays. Gardeners often fail to plant them early enough to allow the chrysanthemums to become established before frost as they should be planted at least 6 weeks (or more) before a killing frost.

Fortunately, there are hardy mums available in most flower forms. But once you’ve selected chrysanthemum flowers suitable for your area, you have to care for them properly. Pinching established plants will improve the plant’s looks, but pinching is only part of the formula. You also have to be ever-mindful that, while chrysanthemum flowers hold up against light frosts, hard frosts will damage the blooms you’ve worked so hard to produce. Your pinching activities, then, must be balanced with the fact that you’re in a race against time to get blooms before a hard frost: that’s why it’s so important to stop pinching at the right time, based on the cultivar you have. Stop pinching:

Early-blooming cultivars by mid-June late summer
To bloom in September by late June
To bloom in October by July 4

Since it’s so important to know what cultivar you’ll be working with, it’s wiser to buy mail-order mums (single-stemmed rooted cuttings) from a catalog and plant them in spring, rather than planting potted mums you’ve purchased in fall. In a good catalog, you have all the relevant information in front of you. Also, spring planting gives the plants longer to become established.

Aggressive garden plants to avoid

Posted on September 19, 2011 by theGardener

Give some real thought before planting these aggressive plant in you garden as they my take more control then you wish.

Chinese Lanterns—are aggressive plant and are great for dried arrangements, but the plant spreads quickly via its underground stems. Once this plant is established you can spend years trying to eliminate it from you garden.

Common Yarrow—is a perennial that can be found listed in both weed and perennial books. This blooming beauty tolerates hot, dry conditions and readily reseeds and spreads. Very difficult to eliminate from your garden and you might want to select a less aggressive species that do not reseed.

Ribbon Grass—is a vigorous grower and is a 3 foot tall cream and green striped grass spreads by rhizomes. Once it takes hold, it will weave itself throughout the garden and crowding out other perennials.

Giant Silver Banner Grass—is an aggressive ornamental grass. Grows 5 to 6 feet tall and can quickly fill the garden, swale or any area where it is planted. Be careful where you plant as it can take over any surrounding areas even wet or critical area spaces.

Moneywort—is a ground hugger that tolerates sun and shade as well as wet soils. Yellow flowers resembling buttercup tops the coin-shaped green leaves in late spring. The yellow cultivar Aurea is a bit aggressive than the species. Avoid using moneywort near natural waterways, and be prepared to do a bit of weeding to control it.

Gooseneck loosestrife—a close relative to moneywort and is another aggressive grower. The slender white spiky flowers are curved, hence their name. If planted in your garden be prepared to lift and divide yearly to keep it in check.

Ajuga—is a popular ground cover recommended for shady locations. This vigorous grower will expand into other garden areas including sunny locations. Consider less aggressive cultivars, or us a physical edge, walk or other barrier o keep contained.

Obedient Plant—unlike its name, it does not behave. This rapidly spreading plant is 2 to 4 feet tall and blooms in late summer and fall. Plant his is your perennial garden only if you can keep it in check.

How to care for Knock out Roses

Posted on September 19, 2011 by theGardener

You will be rewarded with more abundant blooming, the more hours of sunlight your new rose bush gets. Knockout roses are very easy to grow, and will thrive in most landscapes conditions. Shrub roses prefer moist well draining soil and good nutrition. Soils consisting of high organic matter will retain moisture and promote strong abundant blooms. Knock Out roses are a shrub rose bush that grows to about 3 feet in height and stays in a relatively tidy mound. Proper care will keep this rose bush blooming late into the fall. Tips for the care of Knock Out roses include:

Cut the Knock Out rose bush down to approximately 12 inches in late fall or early spring, using a handheld pruner.
Shape the Knock Out rose bush during the growing season. Keep the mound as rounded as possible. Trim any branches that are growing faster than others.
Remove faded blooms by deadheading to encourage new growth. Regular deadheading will keep the Knock Out rose bush blooming until late fall.
Water the Knock Out rose bush at the bottom of the shrub.. Reducing the shrub’s exposure to overhead watering prevents leaf spot and disease. Increase the watering frequency during dry weather.
Spread a layer of mulch around the Knock Out rose bush, taking care not to pile the mulch against the stems. Apply mulch approximately 3 inches thick.
Apply a fertilizer developed for rose bushes. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions on fertilizing frequency.

· Ensure that the Knock Out rose bush is in a sunny location with well-drained soil. Roses placed in heavy soil may rot.

Padio and Deck Decor

Posted on September 19, 2011 by theGardener

Your deck and patio can seem bare compared to your budding garden. To help accentuate your seating area you need to be creative, think outside the box and utilize all surrounding areas in a positive way.

First, decide on a theme or purpose when surveying your landscape. Ask yourself, “What type of furniture should I buy? What special features do I want to add? Do I want to add a water feature or statuary? Should I branch out in to container gardening?” Once you have a vision and each location has been assigned all else will fall into place.

When purchasing deck and patio furniture, keep in mind you want it to be weather proof. Wicker is easy to clean and great for closed and open decks. Accessorize with wind chimes or a water feature to create serenity and peace throughout your backyard. Statuaries offer separation and balance to your garden if it suits your theme.

Container gardening is a great way to liven up your patio and deck. Your options are endless and each one allows you to be flexible and utilize space where traditional gardens may not be able to thrive. It is the perfect solution to spruce up your balcony, window sill, and empty corners as well as create walls for shade and privacy from neighbors.

Depending on your choice of flowers, herbs and veggies, some of which you may start planting before your last frost date. Instead of transplanting them, which is always an option, many choose to create a bountiful landscape with levels that flow throughout your yard giving it a completely different look.

There are so many different containers to choose from it can be overwhelming. You want to choose a pot with sufficient drainage that can still hold enough moisture to keep the roots from drying out. Weather you plant deep rooted vegetables or multiple seeds in one pot, make sure the container is large enough for growth. If the container is too small, it will restrict growth and result in dead roots.

Select containers with wide openings. Ceramic pots are eye catching but may be too heavy to relocate and drainage could be weak. Drill holes around the base if this is the route you want to take about ½ inch across. If you choose wooden containers, go for a good quality redwood or oak to eliminate rotting. If it has been stained or painted, make sure the treatments are non-toxic for obvious reasons. Cheap plastic planters work in the beginning stages of planting, but can melt in extreme climates. Eventually you may want to transplant either in ground or in more durable planters. Hanging baskets work really well when trying to create ambience around hallow areas throughout your garden.

Regardless of what you chose, know that your deck or patio should reflect who you are. No yard is too small for your big ideas. Research, plan and start slow. You can create your own peaceful haven.

Gardening for beginners: Annuals and Perennials.

Posted on September 19, 2011 by theGardener

Both annuals and perennials have their place in the garden. Annuals are best for beginning gardeners since these plants offer instant gratification, ample variety, and they’re also easy to grow. Shallow-rooted, these plants don’t require a lot of deep soil preparation before you set them out. They bloom only once and must be replaced at the end of the season. Perennials will return each season for years to come, but they also require a lot of deep soil preparation before planting plus some upkeep, and they bloom for only a few weeks.

Planting and Growing Annuals:

Annuals should not be planted until after the last frost, depending on your location in the U.S this can be late May.
In early spring, start some plants from seeds indoors. After the last frost, set out seedlings that have begun growing indoors and sow other types directly in the garden.
Since most annuals are shallow-rooted, it is not necessary to dig the soil deep. Annuals like a fertile soil that is somewhat richer than the types used for perennials. Fertilizing products as be used.
Check the soil acidity; most annuals will do well with a pH between 5.5 and 7.0.
Plant sun-loving annuals in an area that gets at least six hours of sun per day. Be sure to know whether the annual prefers a sunny or partial shade and place appropriately in flower garden.
Don’t plant annuals in an area where tree roots take up space and rob the soil of moisture.
If soil drainage is poor, plant the annuals in raised beds.

Planting and Growing Perennials:

When planting perennials, consider the desired blooming season, spring, summer or fall. This decision will determine which perennial varieties the garden will include, as well as where plants will be located.
Select a sunny spot for the garden as most perennials are sun-loving and require at least six hours of sun per day to grow and bloom well. The site should also have good drainage, since most perennials will rot if water collects around them and sits for any length of time. If the selected site is a wet area, plant a raised bed.
Prepare the perennial bed in the fall and allow it to settle.
Dig beds to appropriate depth, since perennials are long-term residents, not short-term tenants. Then add generous amounts of rotted manure and peat to the subsoil layer, combined with a handful of wood ashes and super-phosphate for each three to four cubic feet of soil. (This will eliminate the need for added fertilizer.)